I was drinking café con leche at the train station in Málaga, ticket in hand, with excitement bubbling inside me—I was finally going to see Granada and the Alhambra. Visiting this city had been a dream for a while, and now it was so close. The palm trees swayed in the strong sea breeze, and the salty scent of the sea filled the air. I boarded the train and was surprised to find airport-style security with scanners before entering the platforms. The sleek "Talgo" train awaited, and I found a good seat, though a lady later moved me for reasons I couldn’t quite understand, as the train was nearly empty.
As the journey began, I felt the pressure in my ears as the train climbed into the mountains. The landscape outside was mesmerizing—vast stretches of sand, endless olive groves, some ancient and gnarled, others young and freshly planted. The earth’s brown-yellow tones dominated everything, blending seamlessly into a palette of warm hues.
“Welcome to Granada,” the train's speakers announced as we approached. The first thing I noticed was the Sierra Nevada with its snow-capped peaks, a striking contrast to the arid surroundings. My first impression of Granada was instant and strong—I liked it immediately. The city felt different from anything I had seen before.
I decided to extend my stay in Andalusia, using Granada as my base to explore the region. I stayed at Social Hostel, which was affordable and offered a decent breakfast at a fair price.
Granada is anything but ordinary. From nearly every part of the city, you can see the snow-dusted Sierra Nevada or the majestic Alhambra, which became my constant orientation point. I was already imagining climbing the mountains, but that’s a story for another time. My first goal was to visit the Alhambra, that magical palace standing proudly as a living symbol of history.
Unfortunately, tickets were sold out for the next ten days. While waiting, I explored the city, mingled with locals, tried the food, and wandered through the narrow streets. I often wondered why anyone would choose to build a city in this semi-desert. Yet, the more I explored, the clearer it became—they were brilliant. The city’s architecture, from its buildings to its streets, blended perfectly with the landscape, reminding me of Morocco.
Granada’s streets are full of secrets, especially in neighborhoods like Sacromonte, where many young people gather, particularly before sunset. They drink, enjoy the view, and soak in the fading light. Walking there through the Old City was an experience in itself. One thing Granada is famous for is its tapas—free food served with drinks. I was often amazed at the quality of these complimentary dishes, which sometimes included high-quality meats.
The streets of Granada are lined with plane trees, their leaves creating a carpet during the fall. I vividly remember walking on those leafy pavements, savoring the atmosphere. I tried to speak my broken Spanish with locals, endlessly curious about the city’s history. Granada has always been a melting pot of cultures, and even today, around 20% of the population is Muslim. The people here seemed more relaxed and laid-back than in many other places I’d traveled. Young Granadans struck me as artistic—many could be seen painting, drawing, or writing in public spaces. On the flip side, it wasn’t uncommon for strangers to approach and offer to sell something illicit.
Andalusians are known for being loud, and there’s a joke in Spain that you can spot them as the noisiest people in any bar.
The symbol of Granada, and indeed all of Andalusia, is the Alhambra. The name itself has Arabic origins, meaning “The Red,” and the palace was constructed between 1232 and 1492, with each generation adding to its splendor. Before the Arabs arrived, the area was likely sparsely inhabited but had access to water—a precious resource that made it seem like paradise to those coming from Africa.
Getting to the Alhambra from Granada is easy. You can walk or take the C30 mini-bus, which you can pay for in cash. Walking offers a chance to explore the city’s charming streets and admire old buildings along the way. Tickets cost €18 and can be purchased on the official website, which I recommend using over third-party sellers.
The Alhambra is breathtaking—a city within a city, filled with unique architecture, fountains, Islamic calligraphy, and lush gardens. I recommend visiting in the morning or late afternoon to enjoy the golden hours and stunning views.
Every corner of the Alhambra tells a story—of luxury, power, and the people who once ruled the caliphate. Even after the Reconquista, the palace was preserved rather than destroyed, with only a church added later.
Granada and the Alhambra remain among the most fascinating places I’ve ever visited. I stayed longer than planned, captivated by the city’s charm and the vibrant Andalusian spirit. Is it the sun, the climate, or something else that makes everything here feel so unique? Perhaps it’s all of it together.
Tips: Granada is well-connected to the rest of Spain. If you plan to visit, book tickets for trains, Alhambra, and accommodations well in advance. Try to speak Spanish as much as possible; locals are generally not happy to speak English.
