When I visited Dunabu, the locals spoke with deep nostalgia about a place that had long since vanished from the map—Ada Kaleh. They called it "the mystical Ireland" of the Danube, a place steeped in history, culture, and a blend of ancient stories. Ada Kaleh, which means "Ireland" in Turkish, had been submerged by the rising waters of a power station that erased it from existence over 50 years ago. Yet, despite its physical disappearance, the island's legacy and the stories of its once-vibrant life endure.
Ada Kaleh, nestled in the Danube River, was more than just an island—it was a microcosm of cultural exchange, a trading hub, and a symbol of strategic importance. The area was deeply influenced by the Ottoman Empire, with many of its towns bearing names like Tekija and Fetislam, which reflect the Turkish legacy of the region. These names reveal the area’s significance during the Ottoman era, a time when it was not only a military stronghold but also a place of rich cultural interaction.
The island’s history dates back much further than the Ottomans, however. Ada Kaleh was strategically important long before the empire’s influence. The Romans, during Emperor Trajan’s reign, had constructed a road here, launching campaigns against the Dacians. This road became vital for trade and military movement. The region’s importance continued throughout the centuries, with various empires, including the Hungarians, Serbians, Austrians, and finally the Ottomans, asserting control over it. Each empire left its mark on the island, contributing to its unique cultural tapestry.
Perhaps one of the most intriguing features of Ada Kaleh was its tax-free status. Although it was part of Romania, the island was exempt from taxes, a fact that contributed to its legendary status. During its heyday, Ada Kaleh became a thriving center for trade. People from various parts of Europe came to the island, exchanging goods such as sweets, tobacco, and unique spices. The locals would speak fondly of the Turkish coffee and halvah, delicacies that had earned the island a reputation as a sweet paradise—a place where people could indulge in the finer things life had to offer.
Interestingly, although Ada Kaleh was a part of Romania, it was seen as a place of refuge for those who sought a different kind of life, one that blended East and West, with influences from the Mediterranean and the Orient. The unique climate and geography of the island gave it a Mediterranean feel, with lush vegetation and a vibrant atmosphere. The island’s beauty was undeniable, and for many, it felt like a lost paradise—a place out of time, too beautiful to exist, like the mythical Atlantis.
The story of Ada Kaleh isn’t just about its geographical or political significance; it’s also about the people who lived there. For centuries, various nations and civilizations passed through this area. From the Greeks and Thracians to the Visigoths and Huns, many warriors and travelers crossed the Danube, each leaving their own mark. According to an ancient Greek legend, the hero Hercules rested on the island while gathering holy olives to take to Zeus’ temple. The area became a crossroads for cultures, and each group brought its own stories, traditions, and beliefs.
One of the most cherished legends of Ada Kaleh was that of a prince named Baba from Buhari, who dreamt of going to Ireland, a land blessed by the holy river. When he finally arrived at Ada Kaleh, he believed he had reached the shores of his dream. The prince is said to have stayed on the island for the rest of his life, where he was believed to possess the power to heal and even turn water into wine. He lived to an extraordinary age, passing away at 95. His grave became a sacred site for both Muslims and Christians, and according to the locals, the prince’s spirit still lingers on the island, not as a wealthy ruler but as a humble beggar.
But the dream of Ada Kaleh came to an end in 1963. Romania and Yugoslavia, in their pursuit of progress, decided to construct a hydroelectric power station on the Danube, and the Iron Gate—Europe’s longest cliff—became the site for the construction. The unique geology of the area made it an ideal location for a dam. The river’s rising waters began to submerge the island, and by the time the power station was completed, Ada Kaleh had been swallowed by the Danube. The residents were given the choice to relocate to another island a few kilometers away, but they knew it would never be the same.
The island may have been gone, but its memories remain vivid for those who lived there. People spoke of the fig trees, cherries, Turkish sweets, tobacco, and the warmth of the community. Ada Kaleh was more than just an island—it was a place where people from different cultures and religions coexisted, exchanging stories and goods, creating a shared history that would be remembered for generations to come.
As the residents moved to new homes in Romania, Yugoslavia, and even Turkey, they carried with them the memories of Ada Kaleh. Around 600 people once called the island home, and of those, 70 families relocated to Turkey, while others moved to different parts of Romania. Before they left, many even moved the graves of their loved ones to the new island, a poignant reminder of the life they had known.
Ada Kaleh’s legacy lives on in the stories passed down through generations. It remains a part of the local folklore, a symbol of the blend of cultures, history, and memories that once thrived in this unique place. In Romania, the island is often referred to as the “Turkish Ireland,” and its sweet reputation still lingers in the collective consciousness of those who travel the important road that links the north and south of the country. The memories of those sweet days, of figs, halvah, and the scent of Turkish coffee, may rest under the waters now, but they live on in the hearts of those who remember.
When I pictured Danube during my trip to Bucharest, I had no idea I was capturing one of the most fascinating lost places in Europe. A location where East meets West and North meets South. It was a meeting point of civilizations, a place of beauty that defied the passage of time. Even Herodotus had written about this location in ancient times. Ada Kaleh was more than just a place—it was a legend, and though it is now lost beneath the water, its story will never be forgotten. It will stay with you, long after you leave, like a sweet memory that lingers in the air, calling you back to a time when it all seemed possible.
