I visited and stayed in Craiova for a while, and here are my observations and general impressions about this city. Somehow, I think it’s not quite a fairytale city, but rather a forgotten one. Craiova deserves much more attention and care because it’s not well-represented, much like the whole Dolj County. Even among Romanians, Craiova is not particularly popular, partly because of accidents and events in past decades. Yet, I think the city itself is very nice, offering many big events throughout the year. Festivals such as the Christmas Festival, Easter Festival, Shakespeare Festival, and Intencity Festival bring life to Craiova. Every few months, there’s a major event, and during these times, the city transforms, becoming more vibrant and charming.
Craiova is home to a university, attracting many international students, especially in fields like medicine, pharmacy, and dentistry. Many young people from Greece come here to study, as well as students from Serbia, Bulgaria, and various Arab countries. There are also many international workers here, mostly from Asia, showing that Craiova is becoming an international city. As the capital of Dolj County, it draws people from neighboring towns, offering them greater opportunities.
During my stay, I explored the wider area, met many locals, tried all kinds of local food, and visited nature, including rivers and lakes. These experiences gave me a deeper understanding of the place and helped me learn many fascinating things.
The name "Craiova" has a meaning in Slavic languages, where "crai" refers to "ending." Perhaps it was once seen as being at the edge of the country or another boundary. With a population of about 300,000, Craiova is one of the largest cities in Romania. However, the city doesn’t feel as populated compared to others like Timișoara or Brașov. This may be due to the massive emigration of Romanians in the '90s and 2000s, many of whom moved to the UK, Italy, or other Romanian cities like Bucharest and Timișoara. These migrations seem to have left certain generations missing.
Uniquely, Craiova is located between two rivers, the Jiu and the Olt. Most cities are built on one river, but Craiova lies between two, which is quite interesting. Both rivers significantly influence the region, with the Olt giving its name to Oltenia. The Jiu River is also important, with many towns along its course bearing its name.
Craiova’s history is rich, and most of its landmarks were built in the last 200 years, showcasing a mix of architectural styles. Some of the most remarkable landmarks include the National Theatre, the University Building, Romanescu Park, English Park, the Botanical Garden, the Pedagogical Library, and Aman Library. The city also has many cozy small houses. Interestingly, many of Craiova’s iconic symbols, such as Romanescu Park and the Aman Library, were created by wealthy individuals like Nicolae Romanescu and Alexandru Aman.
Summers in Craiova are very hot, often making it one of Romania’s hottest cities after spring. This might be due to its microclimate and the lack of wind. The city itself is quite flat, with no visible mountains until you reach the northern county of Gorj.
Craiova has two football clubs, CS Universitatea Craiova and FC U Craiova 1948. Football is hugely popular here, with matches drawing large crowds. Discussions about recent games are common, showing how much the locals love the sport.
Many neighborhoods in Craiova were developed during the communist era, characterized by gray cement buildings that are easy to recognize. Public transportation is well-developed, with buses and trams connecting the city efficiently. If you plan to use public transportation, remember to buy a ticket, as controllers often check passengers and may be in plain clothes. Craiova is also home to a Ford factory, probably the city’s most well-known industry today. Historically, Craiova was an industrial hub, producing planes and trains, though many factories collapsed during privatization.
While other Romanian cities have developed faster, Craiova has lagged behind. Its geographical location in the southwest might be one reason. However, the infrastructure is decent, with Craiova being just three hours (210 km) from Bucharest. The city also has an airport, making travel abroad convenient.
The city’s vibe isn’t as lively compared to other Romanian cities. Many places felt quiet rather than bustling. Still, you can find excellent restaurants and bars. Shopping malls are especially popular, particularly among young people, as they offer shopping, cinemas, and more.
My favorite place in Craiova is Romanescu Park, named after Nicolae Romanescu. It’s a delightful spot to visit any time of the year, with a lovely lake shaped like a guitar, a small zoo, food options, little boats, and many old trees.
Craiova’s railway station (Gara) is another iconic spot. Open 24/7, it provides frequent connections, though trains to Bucharest are often delayed by 45 minutes to two hours. Security personnel are present at night, adding to the station’s charm and utility.
Prices in Craiova are generally low, making it one of the cheapest cities in the Balkans and Europe. Street food, especially covrig, is widely available and delicious. I ended up eating so much covrig that I thought I might turn into one!
Craiova is a developing city, striving to catch up with other Romanian cities. It shines brightly a few times a year during festivals like Easter, Shakespeare, Intencity, and Christmas. The most popular bar in town is "Biergarten," where you’re likely to meet almost everyone you know in Craiova.
For refreshments, there’s the Aqua Park and the Jiu River. However, swimming in the river isn’t recommended due to sandbanks, unpredictable currents, and fast-moving water in some areas.
Unfortunately, Craiova isn’t a major international tourist destination, though local tourism is growing, especially during festivals. The city also has a significant Roma population, making up about 20% of its residents.
One unique aspect of Craiova is its car culture. Young people treat their cars like prized possessions, often gathering on weekends to hang out with their vehicles and socialize.
In conclusion, Craiova is a humble city where you can find almost everything, though in limited quantities. One of its charming features is the abundance of public water fountains, providing clean drinking water—a fantastic convenience.
